T he state of Guanajuato, historically speaking, is one of Mexico's richest. Capital of the state of the same name, Guanajuato (gwah-nah-HWAH-toh) means 'hilly place of frogs' and was declared by UNESCO to be a "World Heritage Zone". Undoubtedly, Guanajuato is one of Mexico's most beautifully preserved colonial cities, and owes its fame and fortune to the rich silver and gold discovered by the Spanish in the mid-15th century.

In 1541, the first known incursions by the Spaniards occured. In 1550, a muleteer named Juan de Rayas discovered the still operating, rich Mina de Rayas, therefore contributing to the changing destiny of Guanajuato. For two centuries, thirty to forty percent of the world's silver was mined in Guanajuato. Many of the structures built from this wealth still remain intact, making Guanajuato a living monument to a prosperous, yet turbulent past.

Ironically enough, this city, which had become so wealthy under Spanish rule, took an integral role in the struggle for Mexican independence. In 1810, Guanajuato was the site of the first major victory of the War of Independence for the insurgents, led by Father Miguel Hidalgo de Costilla, otherwise known as "Father of Mexican Independence." Adding to the already eye-pleasing structures left by the Spanish, many other architecturally outstanding monuments and buildings were built in the early 20th century, during the presidency of Porfirio Diaz. Such landmarks include the Juarez theatre, the government palace, and the Hidalgo market, among others. These historic structures, subterranean tunnels, a labyrinth of overground alleys called callejones, and a mosaic of colorfully painted houses jetting up the sides of the mountains which encircle the city, all add to Guanajuato's unique atmosphere. In fact, Guanajuato's downtown core maintains its architectual integrity by restricting gas staions and other concessions to contemporary living to the outlying areas.

However, it's not only the past that resounds from Guanajuato's narrow cobbled streets and colonial buildings. The University of Guanajuato, serving as the city's cultural nucleus, gives Guanajuato a vibrant cultural life where plays, concerts, dance and international movies take place year-round. In October, Guanajuato plays host to the International Cervantino Festival, where world renowned music, dance and theatre groups come from around the world to perform. Guanajuato is also home to several spectacular museums. Some of them include: The Museo de la Alhondiga de Granaditas, originally a granary which was then converted into a fortress during the Mexican War of Independence. Now, the Alhondiga is an archaeological, ethnographic and historical museum, with a special chamber dedicated to the Heroes of Independence. The city also boasts The Museo y Casa de Diego Rivera, the birthplace of the famous and controversial Mexican muralist.

Guanajuato has plenty to offer to fill one's days. However, afternoons and evenings are best spent just strolling through this charming city and its agreeable parks and plazas, enjoying its cultural offerings, or practicing your Spanish with Mexican friends over a cup of coffee at an outdoor cafe. Any visitor, whether short or long term, is bound to fall in love with the charm of Guanajuato.

© 1999 El Quijote
All rights reserved.